Ancient Nisa

The Parthians ruled lands from Mesopotamia to Afghanistan and were Rome's main rival in the east for centuries. Their fortress at Nisa stands on a hill below the Kopet Dag mountains. Its mud-brick walls and the outlines of its halls and temples are still there. Archaeologists found carved ivory drinking horns here, and some are on display in the National Museum in Ashgabat.

The visit takes about an hour with a guide. We usually combine it with the Gypjak Mosque, one of the largest in Central Asia, and the National Museum, where finds from Nisa and Merv make the ruins easier to picture.

There is little shade on the hill, so bring a hat in summer. The view of the mountains on one side and the city on the other is worth the short climb.